The Potential of Atmosphere as a Framework of Inquiry in the Study and Practice of Fashion for Environmental Attunement
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.46516/inmaterial.v11.277Keywords:
atmosphere, materiality, body, dress, attunementAbstract
The current epoch is unfolding as a moment of planetary crisis. The reasons for such a disruptive condition are often identified in the dualist system that has shaped western epistemologies, generating a profound disconnection between humans and nature (Escobar, 2018). As long as the environment in which humans are enmeshed is perceived as a separated object, instead of a process of relational co-creation, the chances of catalysing a systemic paradigm shift seem scarce.
In the field of fashion and textile, designers have attempted to overcome the natureculture divide (Haraway, 2003) in various experimental ways. Although these actions seek to re-connect with the environment, they are challenged by the dualist framework within which they perform and which inhibits the body from actually feeling that connection. This contribution would like to propose a framework of inquiry based on embodiment and relationality – the atmosphere.
Through a selected literature review of the concept of atmosphere in aesthetics, cultural geography and fashion, the non-dualist and relational character of atmosphere emerges (Griffero, 2019; Böhme, 2016). In atmospheric space, the climatic and affective fluxes of bodies, materials, humans and non-humans encounter, mix and shape (Anderson, 2009; McCormack, 2008; Ingold, 2010). Yet to understand and feel the relational dynamics of existence occurring among bodies and environment, it is necessary to find ways to tune in with atmospheric fluxes. This article argues that within the framework of atmosphere, fashion – understood as a sensorial and embodied practice (Entwistle, 2023; Ruggerone, 2016; Kwan, 2020; Robinson, 2025) – can constitute a promising terrain to foster environmental attunement and non-dualist perspectives.
Downloads
References
-Adams-Hutcheson, G. (2017). Farming in the troposphere: Drawing together affective atmospheres and elemental geographies. Social & Cultural Geography, 20(7), 1004–1023. https://doi.org/10.1080/14649365.2017.1406982https://doi.org/10.1080/14649365.2017.1406982
-Alaimo, S. (2008). Trans-corporeal feminisms and the ethical space of nature. In S. Alaimo & S. Hekman (Eds.), Material feminisms (pp. 237–264). Indiana University Press.
-Andersen, N. B. (2023). New phenomenology in architecture: Embodied environmental communication for meaningful situations. Architectural Research Quarterly, 27(4), 325–336. https://doi.org/10.1017/s1359135524000083https://doi.org/10.1017/s1359135524000083
-Anderson, B. (2009). Affective atmospheres. Emotion, Space and Society, 2(2), 77–81. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.emospa.2009.08.005
-Böhme, G. (2006). L’atmosfera come concetto fondamentale di una nuova estetica. Rivista di Estetica, (33), 5–24. https://doi.org/10.4000/estetica.4319https://doi.org/10.4000/estetica.4319
-Böhme, G. (2016). The aesthetics of atmospheres (J.-P. Thibaud, Ed.). Routledge.
-Brown, S. D., Kanyeredzi, A., McGrath, L., Reavey, P., & Tucker, I. (2019). Affect theory and the concept of atmosphere. Distinktion: Journal of Social Theory, 20(1), 5–24. https://doi.org/10.1080/1600910x.2019.1586740https://doi.org/10.1080/1600910x.2019.1586740
-Chiusi, C., Ciola, G., & Vaccari, A. (2025). Fortuny, estetica dell’atmosfera e biofilia della moda: pigmenti, morfologie e aura d’inizio Novecento. ZoneModa Journal, 15(1), 17–35. https://doi.org/10.6092/issn.2611-0563/21925
-Coccia, E. (2023). Don’t call me Gaia. E-flux. https://www.e-flux.com/architecture/hydroreflexivity/571453/don-t-call-me-gaia/https://www.e-flux.com/architecture/hydroreflexivity/571453/don-t-call-me-gaia/
-Engelmann, S., & McCormack, D. (2017). Elemental aesthetics: On artistic experiments with solar energy. Annals of the American Association of Geographers, 108(1), 241–259. https://doi.org/10.1080/24694452.2017.1353901https://doi.org/10.1080/24694452.2017.1353901
-Entwistle, J. (2000). Fashion and the fleshy body: Dress as embodied practice. Fashion Theory, 4(3), 323–347. https://doi.org/10.2752/136270400778995471https://doi.org/10.2752/136270400778995471
-Entwistle, J. (2023). The fashioned body: Fashion, dress and modern social theory. Polity.
-Escobar, A. (2018). Designs for the pluriverse: Radical interdependence, autonomy, and the making of worlds. Duke University Press.
-Filippello, R., & Parkins, I. (2024). Fashion and feeling: The affective politics of dress. Palgrave Macmillan
-Fletcher, K. (2023, [add full date]). Kate Fletcher | Fashion and nature | INSIDE / OUT [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7pSqcQ514Mhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7pSqcQ514M
-Gregg, M., & Seigworth, G. J. (2010). The affect theory reader. Duke University Press.
-Griffero, T. (2019). Pathicity: Experiencing the world in an atmospheric way. Open Philosophy, 2(1), 414–427. https://doi.org/10.1515/opphil-2019-0031https://doi.org/10.1515/opphil-2019-0031
-Griffero, T., & Tedeschini, M. (Eds.). (2019). Atmosphere and aesthetics: A plural perspective. Palgrave Macmillan. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-24942-7
-Haraway, D. J. (2003). The companion species manifesto: Dogs, people, and significant otherness. Prickly Paradigm Press.
-Husserl, E. (1989). Ideas pertaining to a pure phenomenology and to a phenomenological philosophy, second book: Studies in the phenomenology of constitution (R. Rojcewicz & A. Schuwer, Trans.). Springer.
-Ingold, T. (2010). Footprints through the weather-world: Walking, breathing, knowing. Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, 16, S121–S139. http://www.jstor.org/stable/40606068https://www.jstor.org/stable/40606068
-Ingold, T. (2012a). The atmosphere. Chiasmi International, 14, 75–87. https://doi.org/10.5840/chiasmi20121410https://doi.org/10.5840/chiasmi20121410
-Ingold, T. (2012b). Toward an ecology of materials. Annual Review of Anthropology, 41(1), 427–442. https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-anthro-081309-145920https://doi.org/10.1146/annurev-anthro-081309-145920
-Ingold, T. (2025). Landscape, atmosphere, and weather-world. In N. Gansterer & A. Arteaga (Eds.), Contingent agencies: Inquiring into the emergence of atmospheres (pp. 89–102). Hatje Cantz.
-Kazig, R. (2016). Presentation of Hermann Schmitz’ paper, “Atmospheric spaces.” Ambiances. https://doi.org/10.4000/ambiances.709
-Kwan, S. C. (2020). The ambient gaze: Sensory atmosphere and the dressed body. In [Ed(s). name(s)] (Ed[s].), Revisiting the gaze: The fashioned body and the politics of looking. Bloomsbury Visual Arts. https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350154247.ch-003https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350154247.ch-003
-Merleau-Ponty, M. (1962). Phenomenology of perception (C. Smith, Trans.). Routledge.
-McCormack, D. P. (2008). Engineering affective atmospheres on the moving geographies of the 1897 Andrée expedition. Cultural Geographies, 15(4), 413–430. https://doi.org/10.1177/1474474008094314
-Negrin, L. (2025). Maurice Merleau-Ponty: The corporeal experience of fashion. In A. Rocamora & A. Smelik (Eds.), Thinking through fashion: A guide to key theorists. Bloomsbury Visual Arts.https://doi.org/10.5040/9781350376557.0012
-Neimanis, A., & Walker, R. L. (2014). Weathering: Climate change and the “thick time” of transcorporeality. Hypatia, 29(3), 558–575. https://doi.org/10.1111/hypa.12064
-Payne, A., & Smelik, A. (2024). Fashion’s fibres as planetary flows. Fashion Highlight, (4), 8–13. https://doi.org/10.36253/fh-3327
-Robinson, T. (2023). Atmospheres, editorial. Critical Studies in Men’s Fashion, 10(2), 141–146. https://doi.org/10.1386/csmf_00072_2
-Robinson, T. (2025). From Driza-Bone to moving in air: Reimagining fashion practice as part of environmentally attuned fashion futures. Fashion Theory, 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2025.2501845
-Ruggerone, L. (2016). The feeling of being dressed: Affect studies and the clothed body. Fashion Theory, 21(5), 573–593. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2016.1253302
-Schmitz, H. (2017). The felt body and embodied communication. Yearbook for Eastern and Western Philosophy, 2017(2), 9–19. https://doi.org/10.1515/yewph-2017-0004
-Schmitz, H. (2019). Der Gefühlsraum. Verlag Karl Alber. (Original work published 1969)
-Stewart, K. (2011). Atmospheric attunements. Environment and Planning D: Society and Space, 29(3), 445–453. https://doi.org/10.1068/d9109
-Thrift, N. J. (2008). Non-representational theory: Space, politics, affect. Routledge.
-Van Tienhoven, M. A., & Smelik, A. (2021). The affect of fashion: An exploration of affective method. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty, 12(2), 163–183. https://doi.org/10.1386/csfb_00026_1
-Verlie, B. (2019). ‘Climatic-affective atmospheres’: A conceptual tool for affective scholarship in a changing climate. Emotion, Space and Society, 33, 100623. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.emospa.2019.100623
-Wehrle, M. (2019). Being a body and having a body: The twofold temporality of embodied intentionality. Phenomenology and the Cognitive Sciences, 19(3), 499–521. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11097-019-09610-z
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2026 Giulia Ciola

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
